Kid-Friendly Rock
Topos are climbing route guides for crags. Typically they will show the line of routes and details of pitches. They make it easier to work out routes on the actual rock by identifying relevant features.
Swanage Dancing Ledge topos and belay points
These topo images are courtesy and copyright of Mike Swann 2003 and original text courtesy of Michael Hunt. Thanks both Mikes!
A link to Ian West's excellent page showing lots of detail about the area and geology. Thanks Ian for such a great resource!
Dancing Ledge lower ledge novice area
These routes are not included in the current guidebook. They have been "identified" from the 1961 route descriptions, so may be more or less accurate, allowing for any changes over the last 40 years and my mis-interpretation of the descriptions.
Main area
Accessed by Llewellyn's Steps or either of 2 "easy ways down" near the pool. The Eastern-most is definitely the easier.
CAUTION!
The staples are fixed into the rock with resin (they are GLUED in place). Rigging a top-rope to the staples in the vertical face of the rock puts a pretty big OUTWARD pull on them, which doesn't seem to be a very good idea. Using the staples in the top (horizontal) surface puts them in shear which is much safer because you're not relying on the adhesion of the resin to keep them in place.
Alphabet Wall
Starts at the Western end of the ledge.
The first few routes have awkward starts because of the small overhang at about 1 m.
5. WEST CORNER S
Straight up the corner where the wall turns into the cave.
6. FIRST ROPED CLIMB D
About 3 m from the left end of the wall there is an obvious L/R line.
7. DELTA VS
Just to the right of 6 there is a patch of white-ish rock just above the 2nd clear break-line. Straight up crossing 6.
8. BETA VD
1 m R of the tiny cave at ground level. Straight up.
9. ALPHA S
Climb straight up to the left of the large block at the top.
10. SECOND BEST VS
Climb through the overhang at 3m to finish to the R of the block.
The next 2 routes start just to the left of the recess (Richard's Recess).
11. BLIMEY VS
Climb to the break, step R and continue up the edge.
12. RICHARD'S SLANT CLIMB VS
Climb to the break, step R 2 m and climb the groove.
Thanks to Michael Hunt for the original text.
©Mike Swann 2003
Noticeboard
13 Dec 2011
New Testimonials page available.
12 Dec 2011
All gear listings have now been fully updated. Broken links to previous retailers pages have been removed. You can restore links to your products on payment of £10 to the Kidsclimbing charity.
Now that's really great value!
09 June 2011
Many thanks to Mountain Trips who kindly donated £10 to Kidsclimbing's Just Giving charity the Children's Trust recently!
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